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Used weapons purchase - scrap iron or scrap metal?

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Almost every young hunter is about to buy his first weapon shortly after the exam. For cost reasons, a used one is often used. But there are dangers lurking here. Norbert Klups reveals what you have to pay attention to.

Norbert Klups
If a hunting rifle is to be purchased and the wallet is not exactly full, the question arises as to whether "the new one" should really be new or whether a used rifle is perhaps the better choice. The used weapons market is currently very interesting and the range is huge. The purchase of used, technical objects is always a risk, and function and condition should be precise before buying
being checked.

Breakdown weapons
The fit of wooden and metal parts is important for all drop barrel rifles. The recoil forces are absorbed by very small surfaces, and many models, especially triplets, are held together by just one screw across the neck of the shaft. The side parts of the stock at the front of the receiver are special
with lightning lock models only 3–4 millimeters thick - this is where damage often occurs. Typical signs are hairline cracks that are visible on the back of the box, or small ones
Chippings. Leave thin, otherwise barely visible hairline cracks behind the box
determine yourself with the help of the "oil test". Simply spread a thin layer of oil on the particularly endangered areas behind the case and open the weapon and close it again. When opening, the oil penetrates into the shaft due to the decreasing load
and is pressed out again when closing. This makes it easy to see thin cracks in the wood structure.

If there are signs of damage on the outside of the stock, the weapon should be disassembled and carefully examined by a specialist. First of all, the correct soldering of the barrels is checked, because faulty soldering points cause high costs for repairs. The barrels are made with the handle of a screwdriver
knocked off - along the entire length of the rails. Hold the barrels between your fingertips and make sure that the sling swivels are not in contact. If the soldering is intact, the barrels react like a tuning fork, the tone lingers for a while. If the sound is muffled or harsh, the area needs to be examined more closely.
This is done with an ordinary steel needle, the tip of which is inside the joint between
Barrel and rail is pulled along. You can feel immediately when tin is missing. The needle then gets stuck. With combined weapons, a loose rail has a devastating effect on accuracy. Soldering is expensive because then the barrel set also has to be
be re-blued again. If there is a suspicion that a weapon is not soldered
a professional should check the weapon. He will “push it off”, that is, blow compressed air between the barrels through an existing opening, such as the screw hole for the sling swivel or, in the case of triplets, the hole for the rod of the folding visor.
Before doing this, soapy water is brushed over the solder joints. This means that you can immediately see whether the splint is loose at any point. Shotgun barrels that have very thin walls are particularly sensitive to mechanical loads. Therefore, they must be carefully checked for any bulges. That sounds easy, but it's in
not so easy in practice. A flat and symmetrical bulge is difficult to spot. The best method is to look along the outside of the barrel with your eye about four inches behind the chamber. The barrel must be well lit. Then the muzzle is slowly raised a few inches and
lowered. The smallest bump becomes visible. To check the inside, light must enter the barrel from the front when looking through it. A small running test lamp is ideal. A bulge becomes visible as a black ring. Even if it's only a few tenths of a millimeter, a striking shadow will emerge. You should keep your hands off guns with bulges because they cannot be repaired.
Whether a ball barrel is further inside at one point can be checked with a tightly fitting patch on the patch holder of the cleaning rod. Slowly pushed through the barrel, an uneven wider area of ​​the barrel becomes immediately due to decreasing resistance
displayed. The resistance must remain the same over the entire length of the barrel.

Don't panic if it rattles!
A somewhat loose closure is not a catastrophe and can be easily adjusted in certain cases. But it can also become a very expensive proposition, so that such a weapon is not worth buying. Most common cause is a worn one
Hinge pin, and it's easy to replace. Slight play in the locking wedge disappears when the hinge pin is replaced. But if the problem lies with the fit of the barrel hooks in the receiver, it becomes more difficult. Here should at least
the complete lock bolt can be replaced if no other “operations” are necessary. The fore-end is used to determine if the breech is loose
removed, the stock clamped under the arm and the weapon shaken vigorously. If
If there is now a "knock" in the weapon, the breech is not tight. The running hooks should be examined for tool marks. Attempts are often made to eliminate the play by upsetting. This only works for a short time. After a few shots, the breech rattles
again. If there are noticeable traces on the hooks - stay away! The security functions
are checked by cocking the weapon when it is unloaded and unlocking it. The deduction is charged a little and the safety is operated when the deduction is charged. The trigger should now move forward a little. In the case of shotguns, they also function perfectly
the ejectors checked. The system must work in such a way that the locks are cocked before the cases are ejected from the weapon. If empty cartridges are ejected beforehand, there is a risk that the weapon will not open far enough and
the next shot cannot be fired. At the end there is the shooting performance test. Drop barrel rifles with several soldered barrels must be shot "cold". There should be at least 15 minutes between each shot.
Repeater rifles The control of the barrel and the shooting performance is carried out with repeater rifles in the same way as for break-open rifles. The biggest advantage with bolt-action rifles is the ability to fire several shots in a row. The smooth functioning of the magazine, the infeed and the case ejection is of great importance and must be checked. Exercise cartridges are required for this. It's ready to go
to buy. It is important to fill the magazine completely and to return all cartridges one after the other into the chamber. The slide should work smoothly and the cartridges must be ejected safely. It is repeated with both slow and fast movements. This 1st check does not replace the live ammunition test, because when a shot is fired and the recoil forces act, it can look completely different. All further attempts must therefore be made on the shooting range
be made. It must be easy to open the weapon after the shot. Is the
Something is wrong to open the lock with difficulty and only with great effort. There are several reasons for this. On the one hand, the gas pressure of the cartridge can be too high, which is unlikely with factory ammunition. However, it can also be because the chamber tolerances are too large or the angle between the chamber and the butt plate is incorrect. Conclusions can be drawn from the fired case.
Severely flattened primers or even deformations in the rear part of the sleeve indicate that the gas pressures are too high. Placing the blame on the cartridge now is not always true. It can also be because the transition from the chamber to the barrel
is too short. If loads are used with heavy projectiles that are correspondingly long, these are already on the pulls and the pull-out resistance from the
The sleeve and the press-in resistance in the cables coincide. This leads to increases in gas pressure. A transition that is too short can be recognized by the fact that the
The breech of cartridges with light, short projectiles can be opened normally, but is very stiff for ammunition with heavy, long projectiles. When shooting a test, you should therefore always try cartridges with heavy and light projectiles.
A frequent deficiency with bolt action rifles is too large a breech distance. This means the length of the cartridge when the shutter is closed. Usually it is 0.1-0.15 mm. If it is too big, the case will stretch when fired
too strong lengthways and can even tear. If the locking distance is too large
there is usually a light-colored expansion ring on the fired case in the lower third
detect. Then a gunsmith should check the breech gap. However, the cause of the poor shooting performance of a bolt action rifle can also be a faulty one
Be system or running bedding. The system must not be strained, otherwise constant precision cannot be expected. This is checked by loosening a system retaining screw. If the fastening is released, the system must not lift out of the socket bed. If this occurs, the system is not lying flat in the shaft and the bedding has to be improved. The barrel should swing freely and not make contact with the shaft
to have. A cardboard the thickness of a postcard must be able to be pulled through from the muzzle to the chamber between the barrel and the barrel. If it gets stuck, the running bed should be re-pierced. If you follow the instructions above, you can go to the
Used weapons market to get hold of a decent weapon for little money.

Hands off!

Loose rails on drop barrel weapons
• Shotgun barrels with barrel bulge
• Ball barrels with oversize or poor condition
• Hairline cracks in the stock of drop barrel weapons
• Detected play in the breech of drop barrel rifles
• If expansion rings are found on the cartridge case during trial firing
• If the bolt on bolt action rifles is difficult to move after the shot

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